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Exploring the Evolution of Stout: Classic to Innovative Styles

Stout began as a stronger porter in 18th-century London. Here are the main stout styles today, from dry Irish to imperial, with strength and flavour for each.

Steven Liesch3 min read
Illustration: Exploring the Evolution of Stout: Classic to Innovative Styles

The short answer: stout began in 18th-century London as a stronger (“stout”) version of porter. Today it’s a family of dark, roasty beers: dry Irish stout, sweet (milk) stout, oatmeal stout, foreign extra stout, American stout and the strong imperial stout, plus modern pastry stouts brewed with added sweets and adjuncts.

Style ABV What it tastes like
Irish (dry) stout 4–4.5% Dry, roasty, light body
Sweet / milk stout 4–6% Sweeter and fuller from lactose
Oatmeal stout 4.2–5.9% Smooth, silky, mild roast
Tropical stout 5.5–8% Sweet, fruity, smooth roast
Foreign extra stout 6.3–8% Stronger, firmly bitter, roasty
American stout 5–7% Roasty with noticeable American hops
Imperial stout 8–12% Rich, intense roast, dark fruit, warming

From porter to stout

In the late 1600s, “stout” just meant strong: you could have a stout ale or a stout beer. The dark beer it ended up attached to was porter.

When What happened
Early 1700s Porter, a dark brown beer made from brown malt, becomes London’s everyday beer, probably named after the street and river porters who drank it.
1700s The strongest porters are sold as “stout porter”, soon shortened to “stout”.
Late 1700s London brewers ship very strong stouts to the Baltic and Russia, where they’re popular at the imperial court: the origin of imperial stout.
1817 Daniel Wheeler patents a drum roaster for black (“patent”) malt. A little of it colours a beer brewed mostly from cheaper, more fermentable pale malt, and brown malt fades out.
1800s Guinness in Dublin becomes the best-known stout brewer. Stronger versions brewed for export to hot countries become foreign extra stout.
Late 1800s Oatmeal stout is sold as a nourishing beer.
Early 1900s Milk stout, sweetened with lactose, appears in England.
1900s Porter fades in Britain. Irish dry stout, later poured on nitrogen, becomes the stout most people know.
1980s on Craft brewers revive porter and oatmeal stout and add American stout, barrel-aged imperial stout and pastry stout.

The styles by the numbers

Style (BJCP 2021) OG IBU Signature
Irish stout (15B) 1.036–1.044 25–45 Roasted barley, flaked barley, dry finish
Irish extra stout (15C) 1.052–1.062 35–50 A bigger, fuller Irish stout
Sweet stout (16A) 1.044–1.060 20–40 Lactose, full body
Oatmeal stout (16B) 1.045–1.065 25–40 Oats for a silky body
Tropical stout (16C) 1.056–1.075 30–50 High sweetness, fruity esters
Foreign extra stout (16D) 1.056–1.075 50–70 Strong, firmly bitter, roasty
American stout (20B) 1.050–1.075 35–75 Bold roast, American hops
Imperial stout (20C) 1.075–1.115 50–90 Big, rich, dark fruit, alcohol warmth

Pastry stout isn’t a BJCP style. It’s usually an imperial stout with dessert ingredients like vanilla, cacao, lactose or maple.

What gives stout its flavour

  • Roasted barley: unmalted barley roasted black. Sharp, coffee-like and dry; the backbone of Irish stout.
  • Black (patent) malt: very dark and sharp. Too much tastes burnt or ashy.
  • Chocolate malt: a softer roast with chocolate and coffee notes; common in porters and sweeter stouts.
  • Flaked barley: body and the dense, lasting head.
  • Oats: a silky, full mouthfeel rather than an oat flavour.
  • Lactose: milk sugar the yeast can’t ferment, so it stays sweet.

Dark malts are acidic, so stouts suit moderately alkaline water. More on this in how roasted malts change flavour.

Stout vs porter today

There’s no hard line any more. Stouts usually lean on roasted barley for a sharper, drier roast; porters lean on chocolate and brown malts for a softer, more chocolatey one. Some breweries call nearly identical beers by either name. Compare our robust porter with the stouts below, or read porter vs stout.

Brew a stout at home

Recipe What it is
Irish stout A light, Guinness-style dry stout, about 4%. Ready to drink quickly.
Dry stout A little bigger and roastier, about 4.3%
Oatmeal stout Fuller, smoother and a little sweeter
Deception Cream Stout A popular community recipe for a sweet (milk) stout with lactose
Founders Breakfast Stout clone An imperial oatmeal stout with coffee and chocolate, about 8%
  • Go easy on roasted barley. 8 to 10% of the grist is plenty for an Irish stout.
  • Carbonate low. About 2.0 volumes for an Irish stout, or pour it on beer gas through a stout faucet for the creamy head.
  • Treat big stouts like big beers. Pitch plenty of healthy yeast, aerate well, control the temperature and give them weeks to condition. See high-gravity fermentation.

Frequently asked questions

Is Guinness a stout or a porter?

Guinness Draught is an Irish dry stout. The brewery made porter before stout, and like most stouts, its stout began as a stronger porter.

Is stout stronger than other beers?

Not necessarily. Irish stout is 4 to 4.5%, lighter than many lagers. Imperial stout is the strong one, at 8 to 12%.

Why is stout served on nitrogen?

Nitrogen barely dissolves in beer, so a nitro pour gives tiny bubbles, a thick, creamy head and a softer, less prickly body.

What’s the difference between milk stout and sweet stout?

Very little. Milk stout is a sweet stout made with lactose, and most sweet stouts use it. “Cream stout” is another name for the same style.

Related guides

Porter vs stout, how roasted malts change flavour, choosing brewing malts, barrel aging and all our all-grain recipes.

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